If I were queen for the day, I would give the three kids who are standing at the entrance to the market parking lot doing a gum boot dance for pennies coloring books. If I were queen for the day, I would give flashlights to all the people who walk along this dark, winding road every day. If I were queen for a day...It's hard to be here on some levels. I am struggling financially, but compared to whom?
It sure is easier to write about the splendid sights and sounds of this magnificent country. I have had my eyes glued to the binoculars much of each day, discovering new birds, practicing spotting game in the bush and trying to memorize the texture and colors of the high grass along the slopes and curves of the lazy hills and striking mountains. We are seeing several faces of this continent, country. One face is the one packaged for the rest of the world. It is beautiful, the land, the safaris, the exciting cities of Cape Town and Johannesburg. Coming here from the US is also limited due to the expense of travelling so far.We stayed at one game reserve lodge that was built to cater to very tourists wanting the safari experience without the complications of the other faces of South Africa. They even had their own airstrip. Each time you left your chalet, the room would be freshened up. They strove to satisfy the Big Five hunger of its guests with game drives in Land Rovers roaring through the bush, thorn trees and all to see lion, cheetah, buffalo, rhino and elephant. Our needs were met at every turn, including our pesky gluten-free request.
Though the guests were insulated, the manager and many of the staff were intimately involved with the rehab of the creche in the local village of Moletedi. We went there with one of the guides to deliver donations from our wonderful coworkers. Unfortunately, it was Saturday so we were not able to meet the kids. We met the main teacher. I thanked her in North Sotho, written down by a staff member at the lodge. Dumela mma - hello miss, Kealeboga - thank you, Realegoga mma ka tiro ya gago e ntle ya go tlhokomela bana - thank you for all the work you are doing (essentially). The building had been greatly improved recently. The next goal of the lodge employees was to get a new playground jungle gym. The teacher said they needed school supplies, especially lined practice paper. What about a computer, we asked. That was far away from the sand and dirt play yard.
The chalet we stayed in was bigger than our house. The amount one guest paid for one night was more than those children would see in a year. This contrast is on my mind.
Recently, we drove down a road through a very poor village on our way to Giant's Castle, a fantastically beautiful section of the Drakensberg Mountains. There were people, cows, goats, sheep and kids walking along the road, the cows crossing with a "dare me" attitude. Three kids at one point went onto their knees as we passed with hands out. They were around 4 or 5 years old.
The next day, we travelled on a very challenging pass through more mountains above a huge reservoir. At the bend of the topmost curve, on a pull-off, sat an 8 year old girl and her 5 year old brother. They had cure figurines for sale. As we got out, the boy said, "Do you have any food? We are hungry". Their grandmother sat nearby, making wonderful baskets, next to a weak fire. Without hesitation, Janita and I scrambled through our car, packed to the gills with this and that, to find food and a sweater for the grannie. That is the face of South Africa that is ignored. Gratitude has taken a different voice. I have used it to remind myself of my responsibility and connection to the world around me. Here I was being thanked.
Here are the two stereotypes of Africa. They are there, they are striking, they are real. I see it and respond with intense emotion, awe and wonder on one extreme, self conscious, guilty and powerless on the other. Even my responses are stereotypical. There is much more, rich cultures and history that is missed with this limited view. That I miss also. Complicated.
We spent a relaxing twelve days in the Drakensberg Mountains. They are called the Drakens (berg means mountain so it's kind of repetitive) because the craggy peaks look like the back of a dragon. The birding was terrific. I was able to slow down and be present with myself, follow a rhythm I rarely hear and again remember how I long to be out of the talking head mode. I have thought that this physical and emotional state can only happen in surroundings like this, in contexts like this. I am now wondering if that is not the case. There are moments, daily I think, in which I can switch into this present mindedness. Moments...that could evolve into minutes? I want to make sure of it, take that certainty back to share with my clients who like most everyone else get caught in the "what ifs", "nevers" and "always" that are paralyzing.
